Noisepon - Jazzpan

The well-disposed traveler will often associate certain impressions with a certain country. Consequently, CNN called a short break feature in its news programme 'sights & sounds of...' such and such country. Indeed, certain sights, colours, but also smells are usually well remembered. The same goes for sounds, of course.

Now, like every country, Japan is full of sound. In some cases one would probably be inclined to call it noise. However, this - as with many things - lies 'in the ears of the auditor'.

For instance, almost everyone who ever passed or entered a so called 'Patchinko parlour' is likely to wonder what on earth the attraction is about these places. There, in a number of straight rows people sit closely next to each other all staring at machines that are a mix between a pin-ball and slot machines.
jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj
The player buys a basket full of balls made of metal that are all a bit more than 1cm in diameter. The machine gets filled with these and then they fall through it, only held back by a number of arranged metal sticks or 'nails'. The player can watch this and, in a very limited way, influence the course the balls take.

Eventually they all fall into slots and depending on where they fall in, the player wins or not. However, by law the players can't win money. So they get little 'gifts' like a toy, chocolate or a cheap perfume etc.

Now, there they sit - for hours - surrounded by a deafening mix of the noise the metal balls make when falling through the machines, plus extremely loud music (it needs to surmount the noise produced by the falling metal balls going though the machines), plus constant announcements form the staff (which, again, needs to surmount the music and the noise of the machines).

I never got the point of doing this, but a friend of mine assured me that most people visiting these places are either extremely bored or addicted - or both.
aölskdjf
Compared to that it's almost relaxing to stand at a six lane street somewhere in the city. What's amazing about that is, that even with quite some traffic it seems not as loud as in other cities in the world. I assume a number of factors come together to keep the noise level down so much:

1. Taxis in Tokyo run usually with gas - so they produce no real engine noise. 2. Japanese car's engines are also usually very silent. 3. Most streets seem to be paved with pavement that, to some extent, absorbs noise produced by car wheels rolling over it. 4. The tires of the cars seem to also be of the kind that produce less noise on the pavement. Combined this sounds more like the gliding of vehicles in a sci-fi movie than a city of the year 2008.

But enough about such sounds. Over to some more pleasant things like music, and there in particular - jazz.
alöksdj
Japanese apparently love jazz. Jazz is played and listened to A LOT. It therefore doesn't come as a surprise that there is even a website talking about Jazz and Zen.

In fact, it's about the hardest thing to escape jazz music in Tokyo, if you DON'T want to listen to it. That is because jazz is THE ultimate background music for bars, cafés and restaurants and certain sections of department stores.

After a while you don't even realise it anymore and it gains a kind of 'air status', i.e. one consciously has to concentrate - like in Zen? - to actually become aware of it....is this the ultimate state of being..? :-)

House hunting II

Have found a flat in Shinjuku (新宿)! Was indeed easier and much faster than I thought. But then, I can only move in November 1st. So, another few weeks in the hotel in Yotsuya (四谷).
asdf
Given the regular space/price ratio here it's actually quite big with 45.59m2 (just realised I'm not clear if that is including the balcony or not...hm probably is).

It's also nicely located, as Shinjuku is one of the hot spots in town and respectively well connected to the rest of this Japanese metropolis. My school is only about five stops away, which should therefore take me about 20mins door-to-door.

The place is fully furnished and they provide all necessary electronic equipment (incl. washing machine - hear that Switzerland?! :-), free Internet etc. With a 'combini' (see earlier blog entry) around the corner life should be relatively - well - 'combini' :-)

For those who know Tokyo a bit here's a map. I checked the neighbourhood both on Google earth (thank you guys for doing this job) and in person. Seems to be a nice urban neighbourhood, but still not too busy at night.
alsdkj

I guess I'll get a bike to explore Tokyo a little more. It's supposed to be one of the best, fastest and most...ok, again...'combini' ways of getting to know the city - provided of course it doesn't rain or it's not 35degrees with 105% humidity. Hm, ok, thinking about it, that limits the use of a bike quite significantly over the year. Maybe I won't buy a bike after all :-).

I'll add some pics once I moved in...

Heso - The Edge of Gizzard

No, this is NOT the title of part four of the 'Lord of the Ring' epic. This is about food. Chicken to be precise.

Now, you might have thought that one can only eat chicken breasts, legs and wings. I can tell you, you were wrong! Ok, we all at least heard of people eating chicken feet and maybe some of you of some other parts. But how about (almost) EVERYTHING? And not because one wouldn't have anything else to eat. No. Because it's a delicacy!

I went to a place in Yotsuya (四谷) called Imaiya Honten. There, they specialise in chicken. And not only that. They only have chicken form one farm that has become famous over the years. So much that it played a part in some popular manga and also a TV soap opera. So, clearly a place for the ultimate chicken connoisseur.

Now, I don't want to bore you with the 'regulars' (according to the menu structure). Liver, heart not to mention the well known and tasty muscles that keep the animal in the air or make it move on the ground.

No. Let's go right to the really good stuff listed in the delicacies section: Here we find it: Heso - or, the edge of gizzard. Now, I assume my cousin Andreas knows exactly what I'm talking about - after all he's a vet. For the rest of us, let me share this little explanation I found: after all he's a vet. For the rest of us, let me share this little explanation:
"The gizzard is a muscular organ of the digestive system of birds and other animals." (source) - Now, who wouldn't want to die - or at least pay a little fortune (given the size of it) - for such a exclusive piece on the plate?!

But it doesn't end here - of course. We also have 'Tsunagi' (繋), which turns out to be a thin tube between the heart and the liver....hmm, yummy!

Or, how about Sashimi of the brain - with three different sauces?

And last but not least something called 'Sol ly laisse' - yes, that's French, and therefore reveals how far these birds must have flown ;-).

Apparently, it means 'Only a fool leaves it' (Etienne, please confirm). Now, what the heck is that? Well, you might have realised that I didn't mention any bones, yet. You would have thrown them away, right? Or given them to the dog? Correct?

Ha! You fools! Didn't you know that there is this famous cabsule on the top of the bone of the thigh, that contains some juicy something that you must not miss?!?! Well, now you know.

Bon appetite - or as they say here: 'Itadakimasu!'

House hunting

I'm currently house hunting, which seems to be a relatively easy thing, provided you plan to do a regular move within Tokyo. Being new in the country and hunting for a furnished apartment, things are a little more complicated. Furthermore, everyone says that Tokyo would be such an incredibly expensive place to live in. Now, so far I came to find that this is NOT the case for many if not most aspects of daily life - excluding housing.

Born in Germany and grown up in a free-standing house, space was never really an issue. Also later, flats offering decent amounts of room remained affordable (excluding ridiculously expensive places like London). Tokyo however, IS amazingly expensive, if you are looking for something of the size that you are used to in most parts of Europe.

This is of course not surprising in a country that has to squeeze all elements of an highly sophisticated industrial society into a small strip between the sea and almost irreclaimable mountains.

Costs for a regular flat pile up to cover a number of things: It's normal for instance to pay the equivalent of one month's rent to the agency (without an agent it's very difficult to find something at all), two month's rent deposit and two month's rent of so called 'key money' (which is essentially bribery) - at least!

Ah, and then you pay rent for at least one month in advance. So, in the best case this adds up to about 6 months worth of rent that one pays, just to set the first step into the new home. Of all this money, you are however likely to only see one month's rent again by the time you move out.

Now that's for the regular situation. In my case I'm looking for a furnished flat, and there things are a little different. Usually, one saves the key money and also the deposit - if paid at all - is not that high. However, the rent is generally higher, given the space provided compared to an unfurnished flat, which is not surprising as the apartment is fully equipped.
asdf


To give you an idea: A 42 square meter, furnished apartment coming along in a Europeanish style and with a separate bedroom can easily be around 450'000 Yen or approximately 5'000 Swiss Franks. In top locations like in the new Mori Tokyo Midtown complex (picture above) apartments are even far beyond that. One has to say though that such places usually are focusing on expats and other parties where the company pays for the apartment - or your regular millionaire coming to town for a few weeks or months.

Such apartments are also generally located in areas popular with foreigners and the building would usually be a serviced one (doorman, cleaning lady, gym, car parking etc included).

Needless to say that I plan to spend a little less than that, in particular, as I will spend my time more in class and out on the street than at home. Well, we shall see what we get...

Financial crises in 日本

I'm sure you are all following the reports on the financial crisis, just like me. I so far had hoped that this would not affect the Japanese market too much. It now turns out that I was wrong. Japanese banks are heavily affected by this (see also chart below).
asldkf


Please see the following news report sent to me yesterday by lovely Lin from Zurich:

Following the problems in the financial sector in the UK, uncertainty has now hit Japan.

In the last 7 days Origami Bank has folded, Sumo Bank has gone belly up and Bonsai Bank announced plans to cut some of its branches. Yesterday, it was also announced that Karaoke Bank is up for sale and will likely go for a song, while today shares in Kamikaze Bank were suspended after they nose-dived.

While Samurai Bank is soldiering on following sharp cutbacks, Ninja Bank is reported to have taken a hit, but they remain in the black. Furthermore, 500 staff at Karate Bank got the chop and analysts report that there is something fishy going on at Sushi Bank, where it is feared that staff may get a raw deal.

Looking for a new gadget?

Have you ever been to a restaurant or in a plane and received either a warm or cold (depending on the season) cotton towel? In Japan they call them Oshibori (おしぼり).

Next to the wooden tooth pic (which seemingly got extinct in Germany - for whatever reason) they are among the best inventions to support the cultivated visitor to restaurants.

Whoever had the pleasure to receive one for the first time immediately wonders why they don't have them all around the planet. Luckily, one gets them in more and more restaurants in the western hemisphere, too.

Now, to keep them cold should be pretty easy. Everyone's got a fridge and therefore it's easy to keep them cool during the hot summer months (just make sure they don't stay there too long and pick up the smell of whatever leftovers you might have stored there :-).

...but warm? What do you do? Put them in the oven? Into a pan? Misuse the vegetable steamer, rice cooker or even toaster??

Well, if you are still looking for the ultimate kitchen gadget for the next birthday or Christmas present, you have arrived: The Oshibori Towel Warmer.



The challenge of course will be to find one in the western world should you live outside the truly international hot spots of London or New York - but in Zurich, for instance ;-))

Only buy the best products!

I took a few pics from my hotel room in Yotsuya (see also below). Nicely enough, I have the city around me - so to speak. On the left Tokyo Tower (東京タワー) - at least the top part (look for the antenna) - then the massive Mori Building (even though it's not so massive on my pic :-) - check the link - and on the right, Shinjuku.







The deal of the day I, however, made in the near-by 'combini', as they call their convenience stores here. I'm always on the look for quality products. However, here they make it really easy for the customers. They simply print it onto their products - how 'combini' :-)



Finally, found some very nice little side streets off the big Shinjuku dori, with lots of little restaurants and bars around the hotel. ET, a place to hang out in the eve - like our regular spot in Osaka :-)

Links:
Tokyo Food Page Restaurant List: www.bento.com

御茶ノ水 と六本木

Was checking out my school in Ochanomizu (御茶ノ水) and promptly found the building. The whole place turns out to be a hot-spot for music instruments.

The area also hosts a number of campuses of Universities and is not too far from Otemachi (お手町) where UBS also has it's offices.

Today they had a little festival going on. Jazz bands were playing on the streets and young designers showed off their work.

Coming from Zurich, I feel it's also worth mentioning that this was a gorgeous autumn day with yet again warm temperatures and sunny skies - just as October Saturday afternoons are supposed to be :-)




Later, I went over to 六本木 (Roppongi) area. Its one of the places in Tokyo that appears to be a bit more saturated with native and non-native English speakers than others. It's consequently rather attractive for the non-Japanese speakers hanging out in town. As a result a lot of expats and other 'gaijins' live there.

It's however also a hot spot for galleries, bars and clubs and therefore attractive for the regular fun-seeking (Japanese) Tokyoite.

Went to have dinner there at an excellent noodle restaurant called Tsurutontan (つるとんたん) that a friend showed me some years ago. Also found a number of new galleries and shops that haven't been around last time I was here...

Links:
Restaurant Tsurutontan: www.tsurutontan.co.jp

東京へ来た！

I arrived in Tokyo!












After a sleepless 11hrs15mins flight (and two kids competing in crying their lungs out) I arrived at a sunny and warm morning in Tokyo - hardly any hint of autumn around... Instead 25 degrees and sun. I figure I could get a tan in no time when sitting on my hotel balcony in Yotsuya (四谷).

While they where preparing my room, I went out for lunch. Chirashi-sushi for 860 Yen (approx 9.80 CHF), including soup and green tea. In lovely Zurich I'd paid a mere 28 CHF for that, for probably only a fraction of the quality. These small family owned little restaurants are just unbeatable...

Next task is to get my old Softbank pre-paid phone running. The number usually expires after the phone wasn't in use for more than 360 days (which shows how long it is since I've been here - too long ;-). I hope only the number expires and not the entire phone...well, if so, I just get the iPhone....

Ah, and then 大阪スタイルお好み焼き (Osaka-style Okonomiyaki) for dinner in Shinjuku. The place was called Rokumonya and seems to be run by a bunch of young people. Anyway, the Okonomiyaki was great. Having arrived from Switzerland just a few hours ago, I went for a cheese version. Very nice. (Reto - you'd like it :)

Links:
Tokyu Stay Hotel - Yotsuya: www.tokyustay.co.jp
Chirashi Sushi: http://i.pbase.com/u40/smshiew/upload/26106819.1010199_IMG.jpg
Soft Bank: http://mb.softbank.jp/mb/
Okonomiyaki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Okonomiyaki
Shinjuku: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shinjuku
Okomiyaki restaurant: www.rokumonya.com
Tokyo guide: www.enjoytokyo.jp